Retinoids aka Vitamin A used in cosmetics and how to use them

Would you like to use retinoids in your skincare routine but don’t know where to start? Read GlowStation’s in-depth guide to retinoids made by our cosmetologist 💜

Retinoids aka Vitamin A used in cosmetics

Retinoids renew the skin by boosting the cell regeneration process and collagen production, reducing impurities, fading fine lines, brightening and even out the skin tone, and blocking excess melanin production.

Almost every skintype benefits from retinoids. To slow down visible signs of ageing on the skin, it is recommended to start using retinoids at the age of 25 to 30 when the skin’s collagen production starts to slow down. Retinoids help to reduce impurities and fade acne scars. It is recommended to talk with a professional when starting to use retinoids.

Retinoid products are not recommended for pregnant and breastfeeding mothers.

Different forms of Vitamin A from the gentlest to the strongest:

Beta-carotene – Gentle, does not require skin to get used to it separately. Effective antioxidant.
Retinyl Palmitate – Usually does not require a specific “getting to used” period. Sensitive skin types are recommended to start the use slowly.
Retinol – Requires always a slow start for the skin to get used to it.
Retinaldehyde (Retinal) – Requires always a slow start. Up to 11 times more effective compared to retinol.
Retinoic Acid – An active form of Vitamin A. Available only via prescription for acne treatment. Retinoic Acid prescribed by a doctor is called tretinoin. It is an extremely strong skin-renewing ingredient used to treat acne and skin damaged by light. Originally designed to treat acne, even though it also helps with fine lines and wrinkles.

What do retinoids do and how do they work?

Vitamin A can be naturally found in the skin in the forms of retinoic acid and retinyl esters. Retinoic acid can be transferred to skin through cosmetics but in pure form, it is available only in tretinoin which is prescribed by a doctor. Using retinoic acid is forbidden in cosmetic products including Vitamin A that are sold over the counter. Instead, the milder forms (beta-carotene, retinyl palmitate, retinol and retinaldehyde) are used in cosmetics.

For the skin to utilise the Vitamin A applied to the skin, Vitamin A must first transform into retinoic acid.

This happens through conversions that Vitamin A goes through and finally turns into retinoic acid:

Betacarotene
-> Retinyl Esters
--> Retinol
—> Retinaldehyde

At this point, the conversion of Vitamin A is only one step away from the active form of Vitamin A. When retinaldehyde transforms into retinoic acid (Vitamin A acid), skin-renewing and cell-regenerating benefits of Vitamin A can start.

How to use retinoids?

Start the use of retinoids slowly. To make your skin get used to retinoids, it is recommended to start using the product once a week. We recommend starting the use of retinoids from the mildest possible concentration available. Your skin might react to the start of retinoid use with a three-day delay, so in the beginning it is recommended to keep at least three days in between before applying retinoid on skin for the next time.

If your skin is irritated by the use of retinoid products, stop the use immediately. Irritation can show up on the skin as redness, flaky skin and/or change in the skin’s temperature. In this case, the skin barrier is damaged and needs to be restored. Use retinoid products only in the evenings, just a small amount. During the daytime, use always a sun cream as retinoids make the skin thinner and more sensitive to the sun in the beginning. With regular use, however, retinoids make the skin thicker.

When your skin is still getting used to retinoid products, we do not recommend using other active ingredients at the same time. Active ingredients are for example AHA, BHA, LHA & PHA acids and Vitamin C. Using chemically or physically exfoliating products is also not recommended when the skin is still getting used to retinoids.

Depending on the product type, cosmetics with retinoids are usually recommended to be applied on clean, dry skin and absorbed well before continuing with other skin care products. Applying on dry skin is recommended as retinoids do not absorb as deeply as when applied on damp skin. Applying retinoids on damp skin can cause more irritation, as the effect of retinoids is more intense this way. Other products in the skincare routine should be hydrating and moisturising. Avoid the eye area when using retinoids, and use products designed specifically for the eye area.